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Fall Garden Chores By Ron Dieter, Sunnyfield Greenhouse & Gardens October 13, 1999 The falling leaves of autumn are a blessing to some and a problem for others. A few homeowners find autumn leaves so unbearable they are willing to clear cut their lot to get rid of the source of the problem. But for gardeners, leaves serve several useful purposes. Chopped leaves make valuable mulching material that can provide good winter protection for the roots and crowns of perennials and ornamental grasses. The key word here is "chopped". Leaves chopped with a shredder or lawnmower won’t blow away in winter winds. Nor will they form a dense mat or blanket that can smother some sensitive plants. A good two or three inch layer of chopped leaves will keep shallow-rooted plants, such as chrysanthemums and strawberries, from being heaved out of the ground by alternate thawing and freezing. There’s no need to put leaves in the compost pile, especially if you have a vegetable garden. After clearing the season’s debris off the garden, spread a good thick layer of chopped leaves over the plot and till it in. The chopped material will compost quickly when blended into the garden soil. Next spring, your soil will be light, easy to work, and have increased moisture-holding capacity. Blending leaves into the soil is so beneficial, you would do well to collect leaves from other homeowners who would otherwise burn them. Believe me, you would be getting the better end of the bargain. Your soil will be much improved and so will the neighborhood’s air quality. Actually, unless you have a heavily wooded lawn, there’s really no reason to rake leaves up at all. A sharp-bladed lawn mower, in one or two passes, will cut leaves into fine pieces that will settle into the lawn, adding valuable organic matter to the soil. So much for leaves. As autumn progresses, garden perennials will go dormant. Most can be trimmed back to the base after the foliage dies, but there are a few exceptions. Butterfly bush (Buddleia) should not be cut back until late spring. In fact, we usually wait until we see signs of life before we cut ours back. For some reason, these tender shrubs survive the winter better if left intact over the winter. The same is true of blue spirea (Caryopteris). When it comes to roses, it seems everyone has their own way of overwintering them. If what you’re doing works, don’t change the program. In many cases roses are lost to the ravages of winter because they were not planted deep enough in the spring. The large knot or graft at the base of the rose bush should be at least two inches below the soil line. If you can see the grafts on your rose bushes, add a sufficient mound of soil to bury the graft at least two or three inches. We plant our roses deep and add some mulch, usually compost. We don’t cut them back at all until late spring. We don’t use rose cones or plastic covers. Most years this works just fine. If you prefer using cones, cut the plants back just enough to fit into the cones. Some perennials are an asset to the winter landscape and should be allowed to stand until spring. Sedums, ornamental grasses, and even the little brown drumsticks of mature Rudbeckia are attractive when silhouetted against the snow. Fall chores are some of the most enjoyable garden tasks. The air is crisp and the breezes are cool, making work easy. Top the day off with a cup of hot apple cider in front of a gentle fire. Sleep comes quick and easy. |
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